Volcanoes National Park covers the Rwandan side of the Virunga Massif, a chain of volcanoes shared with Uganda and the Democratic Republic of Congo. It is only about 160 km², but it is one of the most important places on earth for mountain gorillas. The park began life in 1925 as part of Albert National Park, the oldest national park in Africa, and it was here that Dian Fossey spent almost two decades studying the gorillas from her research camp at Karisoke.
Every trek starts early at the park headquarters in Kinigi, where rangers brief each small group and assign them a gorilla family. Some families live close to the forest edge and are reached in under an hour. Others ask for a long, steep climb through bamboo and nettles. Whichever you are given, the hour with the gorillas passes quickly and stays with you.
There is more to do here than gorillas. Golden monkeys, the hike to Fossey's grave, the climb to the crater lake on Bisoke and the new Ellen DeGeneres Campus of the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund all make a second or third day well worth it.
The park is home to a large part of the world’s mountain gorilla population, and around a dozen families are habituated for visitors. Each group is visited once a day by up to eight people for one hour. You may see a silverback resting in the nettles, young gorillas tumbling through the vines and females feeding on wild celery and bamboo shoots.
Golden monkeys, found only in the Albertine Rift, live in the bamboo zone and are tracked in their own habituated troops. Buffalo, bushbuck and black-fronted duiker are also here, though rarely seen, and forest elephants pass through occasionally. Birders can look for Rwenzori turaco, Rwenzori double-collared sunbird and other Albertine Rift endemics.
Chance of seeing
Our estimate for a stay of two or three nights with a good guide. Wildlife is wild, so nothing is promised.
Five of the eight Virunga volcanoes rise from the park: Karisimbi, Bisoke, Sabyinyo, Gahinga and Muhabura. On clear mornings their cones stand over a patchwork of small farms, potato fields and eucalyptus that run right up to the stone wall marking the park boundary. Inside, bamboo gives way to Hagenia and Hypericum woodland hung with moss and lichen, and higher up to giant lobelias and groundsels. Mist and cloud come and go all day, which is part of the atmosphere.
Activities here
The park is high and cool. Daytime temperatures are usually 15 to 20°C, and nights can drop to around 5 to 10°C, colder on the upper slopes. The long rains run from March to May and the short rains from October to November, but showers are possible on any day of the year. Mornings are often misty and clear later, and you will want layers, a waterproof jacket and gloves for gripping vegetation.
| Month | Day °C | Night °C | Rain mm |
|---|---|---|---|
| Jan | 20 | 10 | 90 |
| Feb | 20 | 10 | 100 |
| Mar | 20 | 10 | 150 |
| Apr | 19 | 11 | 190 |
| May | 19 | 10 | 140 |
| Jun | 20 | 9 | 40 |
| Jul | 20 | 9 | 25 |
| Aug | 21 | 9 | 60 |
| Sep | 21 | 10 | 110 |
| Oct | 20 | 10 | 150 |
| Nov | 19 | 10 | 160 |
| Dec | 19 | 10 | 110 |
Approximate long-term averages. Higher ground is cooler, and forests can rain in any month.
The long dry season runs from June to September, with a shorter, less reliable dry spell from December to February. Trails are firmer, the volcanoes are more often clear in the early morning and trekking is at its easiest. Days at Kinigi are around 20°C, but nights can fall to 8 or 9°C, colder on the upper slopes, so a fleece is welcome at dinner.
The long rains fall from March to May, with April usually the wettest month, and the short rains from October to November. Paths become muddy and slippery, the cloud often sits low on the volcanoes and showers can come at any hour, but the gorillas are still found every day and sometimes stay lower down when there is plenty to eat. A good waterproof, gaiters and gardening gloves make a real difference.
June to September and December to February are the driest months, when trails are firmer and trekking is easier. These are also the busiest months, so we book permits six months ahead or more. The wetter months are still good for gorillas, who sometimes stay lower down when there is plenty of food, and the forest is at its greenest. Trekking runs every day of the year.
Best time to visit Jan to Feb, Jun to Sep
From Kigali it is about 2.5 hours by road to Musanze and Kinigi, on a good tarred road through the hills. Helicopter transfers from Kigali take about 30 minutes and land near the lodges. The park combines easily with southern Bwindi in Uganda, which is only a few hours away via the Cyanika border, and with Lake Kivu at Rubavu, about 1.5 hours to the west.
Gorilla permits in Rwanda cost US$1,500 per person per trek at the time of writing. They are set by the Rwanda Development Board and prices do change. You must be at least 15 years old to trek. Permits for peak months sell out early, so we reserve them as soon as your dates are firm. Golden monkey permits and the Dian Fossey grave hike cost much less and are also booked in advance. We arrange all of them for you.
Treks begin at about 2,500 m and can climb higher, so take the walk slowly, drink plenty of water and let your guide know if you feel unwell. A reasonable level of fitness makes the day more enjoyable. Porters can be hired at the trailhead to carry your bag and help on steep sections, and walking sticks are provided. You cannot trek if you have a cold or other contagious illness, as gorillas are vulnerable to human infections.
National ParkNyungwe National ParkChimpanzees and the canopy walkway
National ParkAkagera National ParkRwanda’s Big Five savannah
National ParkGishwati-Mukura National ParkRwanda’s restored rainforest
Lake & IslandsLake KivuLakeshore rest between treksLake & IslandsTwin Lakes Burera & RuhondoQuiet lakes below the volcanoesOur take
“Stay for the monkeys”
We always suggest at least two full days here, even if you only trek gorillas once. The golden monkey walk on the second morning is short, joyful and completely different in tone, with dozens of monkeys dropping through the bamboo around you. Our guides also speak with the rangers at Kinigi about fitness, so if you would prefer a gentler trek we can ask on your behalf. There are no guarantees, but it is worth mentioning.
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US$338 per person
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