Kigali

Panoramic view of Kigali and its greenery

Kigali spreads over a series of green hills and valleys in the centre of the country. It is clean, calm and safe, and far more interesting than many visitors expect. We like to give it at least one full day, ideally at the start of a trip. A morning at the Kigali Genocide Memorial is […]

Musanze

Forested volcanic slopes in the Virunga

Musanze, once called Ruhengeri, is the busy market town at the foot of the Virunga volcanoes and the gateway to Volcanoes National Park. Most travellers pass through on their way to the lodges near Kinigi, but the town rewards a few hours of your time. Its market is one of the liveliest in the north, […]

Huye

Huye, once called Butare, is Rwanda’s university town and its intellectual heart. It sits on the main road from Kigali to Nyungwe, and it makes a good stop to break the journey. The Ethnographic Museum on the edge of town is one of the best in East Africa, with fine displays on traditional Rwandan life, […]

Nyanza

Nyanza was the royal capital of Rwanda’s kings, and it still carries the memory of the old monarchy. The King’s Palace Museum, at Rukari, includes a replica of a traditional royal palace, a large thatched beehive building, and the 1930s residence of King Mutara III Rudahigwa. Beside the palace graze the Inyambo, the royal cattle […]

Kidepo Valley National Park

Open savannah with mountains beyond in Kidepo Valley National Park

Kidepo Valley lies in the far northeast of Uganda, close to the borders with South Sudan and Kenya. It is remote, dry and beautiful, and it feels like the Africa of old: wide valleys ringed by mountains, a sky that seems larger than anywhere else, and so few visitors that you may not see another […]

Lake Bunyonyi

Lake shore in the evening light

Lake Bunyonyi, the name means place of many little birds, lies in the hills of south west Uganda near Kabale, at about 1,950 m. It has 29 islands and a shoreline of steep terraced slopes, and it is one of the most restful places in the country. We often use Bunyonyi as a place to […]

Jinja

The Nile thundering through Murchison Falls

Jinja stands where the Nile leaves Lake Victoria and begins its long journey north. It is Uganda’s adventure town, known for white-water rafting, kayaking and quieter days on the river, and it makes an easy first or last stop on a safari. Lemala Wildwaters Lodge sits on a small island in the Nile, surrounded by […]

Semuliki National Park

Aerial view of a turquoise hot spring in Semuliki National Park

Semuliki is where the forests of the Congo basin spill over into Uganda. The park covers about 220 km² of lowland forest in the Semliki valley, below the western flank of the Rwenzori, and was made a national park in 1993. It feels different from the rest of the country: hotter, flatter and more humid, […]

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