South of Fort Portal, the land is dotted with dozens of old volcanic craters, many now filled with deep green lakes. Between them run tea estates, banana plantations and small farms, with the Rwenzori rising to the west. It is some of the loveliest countryside in Uganda and a natural base for chimp tracking in Kibale.
Kyaninga Lodge stands on the rim of Lake Kyaninga, north of town, with views straight to the mountains. We like travellers to give this area an extra day: walking between crater lakes, swimming in a quiet one and watching the light change on the Rwenzori.
The forest around Lake Nkuruba holds black-and-white colobus, red-tailed monkeys and occasionally other primates, and the lakes attract kingfishers, fish eagles and weavers. Kibale’s chimpanzees and many other primates are a short drive away.
Chance of seeing
Our estimate for a stay of two or three nights with a good guide. Wildlife is wild, so nothing is promised.
Rolling green hills pocked with steep-sided craters, each holding a lake of a different colour. Tea plantations and banana groves cover the slopes, and the snow-capped Rwenzori stand to the west when the clouds lift.
Activities here
At about 1,500 m, the area is mild, with days around 20 to 26°C and cool nights. Rain is spread through the year, heaviest from March to May and September to November.
| Month | Day °C | Night °C | Rain mm |
|---|---|---|---|
| Jan | 26 | 13 | 45 |
| Feb | 26 | 13 | 80 |
| Mar | 26 | 14 | 140 |
| Apr | 25 | 14 | 180 |
| May | 25 | 14 | 150 |
| Jun | 25 | 13 | 80 |
| Jul | 25 | 13 | 70 |
| Aug | 25 | 13 | 130 |
| Sep | 25 | 13 | 170 |
| Oct | 25 | 13 | 190 |
| Nov | 25 | 13 | 160 |
| Dec | 25 | 13 | 80 |
Approximate long-term averages. Higher ground is cooler, and forests can rain in any month.
June to August and December to February are the driest months, with clear mornings and the best chance of seeing the Rwenzori peaks over the lakes. Paths between the craters are dry and easy to walk.
Rain is heaviest from March to May and September to November, often as afternoon storms. The countryside is at its greenest, but the mountains are usually hidden in cloud.
June to September and December to February bring clearer mountain views and drier walking. The green season is lush and quiet, with showers usually passing through quickly.
Best time to visit Jan to Feb, Jun to Sep
Fort Portal is about 5 to 6 hours by road from Kampala, now mostly on good tarmac. Scheduled and charter flights also serve the area, cutting travel time considerably.
A visa is needed for Uganda and can be applied for online before you travel. The East Africa Tourist Visa covers Uganda, Rwanda and Kenya. Please see the Uganda page for details.
The crater lakes are at around 1,500 metres, with mild days and cool nights. A yellow fever certificate is needed to enter Uganda, so please carry it with your passport. Do not swim in the lakes unless your guide advises it. Drink bottled or filtered water.
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“Walk the crater rims”
Our favourite afternoon here is a slow walk around the crater lakes with a local guide, ending at the Top of the World viewpoint as the sun drops. You see several lakes at once, and on a clear day the Rwenzori are right there. It is a good balance to the early starts of chimp tracking.
Safaris from
US$2,012 per person
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